WHY YOUR DAFFODILS WILL STILL FLOWER BEAUTIFULLY NEXT YEAR, EVEN AFTER THIS EXTREME HEAT

A Summer Heatwave… but Your Daffodils Are Safe

With temperatures soaring across Cornwall and much of the UK, many gardeners are understandably worried about what this means for next spring’s daffodil display. The good news is simple and reassuring: daffodils are far more resilient than people think, and this heatwave will not stop them flowering well next year.

In fact, for most varieties, the bulbs are already deep into their summer dormancy — a natural rest period when they are designed to cope with dryness and heat.

Here’s why your spring show is still on track.

1. Daffodils Are Built for Dormancy

By June, daffodil bulbs have already completed their annual cycle.

• Buds for next spring are already formed inside the bulb.
• Leaves have died back and the bulb has sealed itself for summer.
• Growth has stopped, and the bulb enters a protective dormant state.

This means the current heatwave is happening after all the important work is done.

2. Bulbs Cope Well With Heat — As Long as They’re Deep Enough

Daffodil bulbs sit 6–9 inches below the soil surface, where temperatures remain far cooler and more stable. Even in extreme heat, the soil at bulb depth rarely reaches damaging levels.

Gardeners in much hotter climates — Spain, Portugal, parts of the US — grow daffodils successfully every year. Our UK heatwave is uncomfortable for us, but well within the tolerance of Narcissus.

3. Spring Moisture Matters More Than Summer Weather

The critical period for next year’s flowers is March–May, when leaves are feeding the bulb. If your daffodils had:

• healthy foliage
• regular moisture
• no early cutting back

…then the bulb has already stored everything it needs for next spring.

Summer weather has very little influence on flower formation.

4. Heat Helps Prevent Some Problems

Oddly enough, hot dry summers can actually reduce:

• basal rot
• fungal infections
• moisture‑related bulb diseases

Dry conditions help bulbs cure and harden, especially in lighter soils.

5. Only One Thing to Watch: Extreme Dryness in Pots

Garden daffodils are fine. Potted daffodils, however, can bake quickly.

If you have bulbs still in pots:

• Keep them shaded
• Avoid letting pots reach scorching temperatures
• Move them to a cool shed or garage until autumn

Once planted out, they behave like any other garden bulb.

6. What You Can Do Now (Simple and Effective)

• Leave bulbs undisturbed — no watering needed in the ground
• Mark clumps you plan to divide in July
• Keep potted bulbs cool and dry
• Plan autumn planting as normal

There is no need to water garden bulbs during summer heat. They are dormant and prefer dryness.

A Final Word from Scamp’s

Despite the heat, your daffodils are quietly resting beneath the soil, already holding next spring’s flowers inside them. They are tough, reliable, and perfectly adapted to the kind of summer we’re experiencing.

Come March, you’ll see the results: strong shoots, healthy buds, and a cheerful display that proves just how resilient these bulbs truly are.

 

As spring edges closer, two of the most enchanting bulbs return to centre stage: Fritillaria meleagris, the beloved Snake’s Head Fritillary, and its elegant white counterpart, Fritillaria meleagris ‘Alba’. These nodding, bell‑shaped flowers bring a soft, natural beauty to borders, orchards, and wild garden corners—perfect for gardeners who appreciate subtlety and tradition.

Whether you’re looking to add a touch of wildflower charm or expand a naturalised area, these fritillaries can be the most rewarding bulbs to grow.

Where They Thrive

Fritillaria meleagris and ‘Alba’ are happiest in places that mimic their natural meadow habitat.

Ideal spots include:

• Damp or moisture‑retentive areas
• Lightly shaded borders
• Under deciduous trees
• Grassy areas where they can naturalise over time

They particularly suit gardens in the UK’s cooler, wetter regions—Cornwall included—where spring moisture lingers.

Planting Guide

Planting time: September to November Depth: 10–12 cm Spacing: Around 10 cm apart

For the most natural effect, scatter bulbs and plant where they fall. They look wonderful in drifts rather than neat rows.

Top tips:

• Bulbs can be soft—handle gently.
• If they feel dry, a short soak (1 hour) helps them rehydrate.
• Mulch lightly to keep moisture in.
• In grass, mark the area so you don’t mow too soon in spring.

What You’ll See in Spring

• Fritillaria meleagris: Purple, chequered bells with a distinctive snakeskin pattern.
• Fritillaria meleagris ‘Alba’: Pure white, glowing flowers that lift shady corners beautifully.

Both varieties flower in March–April and will slowly increase if conditions suit them.

Common Problems & How to Avoid Them

Even these easy bulbs have a few quirks. Here’s what to watch for:

Drying out too early If spring dries quickly, plants may fail to flower. Solution: Choose damper areas or enrich soil with organic matter.

Bulb rot Waterlogged soil can cause rot. Solution: Improve drainage with grit if your soil is heavy. (I have seen these thrive in very wet areas but perhaps just try a few at a time)

Slugs & snails Young shoots can be nibbled. Solution: Use wildlife‑friendly barriers or encourage natural predators.

Poor naturalising Often caused by mowing too early or soil drying out. Solution: Allow foliage to die back fully before cutting grass.

Wildlife disturbance Birds or rodents may dig bulbs. Solution: Plant deeper and firm the soil well.

Why not give them a go;

• They bring a soft, wildflower feel to spring gardens.
• Perfect for naturalistic planting and wildlife‑friendly spaces.
• Combine beautifully with early narcissus, primroses, and camassia.

 

Daffodil or Narcissus — What’s the Difference?

This is one of the most common questions we hear.

Short answer: They are the same plant.

Narcissus is the botanical (Latin) name for the entire genus. “Daffodil” is the common English name used for all garden varieties, although I often hear “daffodil” for the large‑trumpet types and “narcissus” for the smaller or multi‑headed forms.

We use the RHS classification, all are Narcissus, whether they are trumpets, poeticus, tazettas, or species forms. So, every daffodil is a Narcissus — but not everyone calls every Narcissus a daffodil.

At Scamp’s Daffodils we’re often asked what the “Divisions” mean in our catalogue. They’re more than just numbers — they’re the international language of daffodils. Understanding them helps you choose the right varieties for your garden, your climate, and your style.

How the Classification System Developed

By the early 20th century, daffodil breeding had exploded. Thousands of new cultivars were being raised, and describing them consistently became increasingly difficult.

To bring order to the chaos, the RHS Daffodil Committee introduced a formal classification system in 1950, grouping daffodils by flower form, parentage, and botanical characteristics.

In 1975, Dr Tom Throckmorton added the familiar colour‑code system, giving us the number‑plus‑letters format used worldwide today.

This system is now the backbone of daffodil shows, breeding, and catalogues — including ours.

As an example of the colour code, the picture above is of ‘Cornish King’ It is a trumpet daffodil, (as explained below) with a white Perianth (petals) and a yellow Corona (trumpet) so this would be classed as a 1W-Y

THE 13 DAFFODIL DIVISIONS

Below is a gardener‑friendly guide to each division, written for clarity and practical use.

Division 1 – Trumpet Daffodils

One flower per stem; the trumpet is as long as or longer than the petals. Bold, classic, and early.

Division 2 – Large‑Cupped

One flower per stem; the cup is more than one‑third but less than the length of the petals. Reliable, varied, and excellent garden plants.

Division 3 – Small‑Cupped

One flower per stem; the cup is no more than one‑third the petal length. Elegant, often late‑flowering, and good for naturalising.

Division 4 – Double

One or more flowers; petals or cup segments doubled. Full, showy, and often scented.

Division 5 – Triandrus

Usually two or more pendent flowers with reflexed petals. Graceful and delicate; excellent in sheltered spots.

Division 6 – Cyclamineus

One flower; strongly reflexed petals and a forward‑facing bloom. Early, weather‑tolerant, and ideal for naturalising.

Division 7 – Jonquilla & Apodanthus

One to five flowers; fragrant, narrow leaves, and flared cups. Superb scent and long flowering.

Division 8 – Tazetta

Three to twenty flowers per stem; strongly scented. Best in mild areas or sheltered gardens.

Division 9 – Poeticus

White petals; small, coloured‑rimmed cup; fragrant. Late‑flowering and excellent for meadows.

Division 10 – Bulbocodium

One flower; hoop‑petticoat corona dominates. Charming, miniature, and ideal for rock gardens.

Division 11 – Split‑Corona

Corona split for more than half its length; includes Collar and Papillon forms. Striking and increasingly popular.

Division 12 – Miscellaneous

Cultivars that don’t fit neatly into Divisions 1–11. Home to unusual and innovative breeding.

Division 13 – Species & Wild Forms

Botanical species and wild variants. The foundation of all daffodils — and often the toughest.

Why the Divisions Matter for Gardeners

Understanding the divisions helps you choose varieties that suit:

• Garden style
• Fragrance preferences
• Hardiness and climate
• Naturalising potential
• Show classification

At Scamp’s, we use the RHS system to ensure every variety is described clearly and consistently — so you can plant with confidence. Any question please feel free to call.

 

Tazetta & Poetaz Daffodils

A fragrant journey from the Mediterranean to your spring garden

As spring unfolds, few groups of daffodils bring as much charm, scent, and sheer abundance of bloom as the Tazettas. These multi‑flowered, sweetly scented Narcissus have a long and fascinating history — and their hardy cousins, the Poetaz hybrids, have become firm favourites in UK gardens.

Where Tazettas Come From

Tazetta daffodils trace their origins to the Mediterranean basin, stretching from Portugal across southern Europe to Turkey, and further east into Iran and Afghanistan. This warm, dry‑summer homeland shaped their character:

• They love sunny, sheltered positions
• They thrive in free‑draining soils
• They appreciate a dry rest in summer

It’s no surprise that they flourish in mild coastal regions such as Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly.

What Makes a Tazetta a Tazetta?

Tazettas are instantly recognisable:

• Clusters of 3–20 flowers per stem
• Generally tall 60cm+ but there are shorter varieties such as canaliculatus.
• Strong, sweet fragrance
• Short, shallow cups with white, cream, yellow, or orange colouring

Introducing the Poetaz Daffodils

Poetaz daffodils are a delightful hybrid group created by crossing:

Tazetta × Poeticus

This marriage brings together the best of both parents:

From Tazettas:

• Multi‑flowered stems
• Sweet fragrance
• Graceful form

From Poeticus:

• Improved hardiness
• A slightly spicier, more complex scent
• Stronger garden performance in cooler climates

Poetaz varieties typically carry fewer flowers per stem than true Tazettas, but they’re far more reliable in UK winters — making them an excellent choice for gardeners who want the Tazetta look without the tenderness.

Growing Tips for Success

Whether you’re planting Tazettas or Poetaz types:

• Choose a sunny, sheltered spot
• Ensure excellent drainage
• Plant in autumn, at roughly 3- 4× bulb depth
• Allow foliage to die back naturally to feed next year’s blooms

Tazettas can be planted in pots, and there is an argument that by doing this you can move them to a warm area when the weather get cold. My own opinion is that they don’t do so well for the following reasons.

• Pots can get cold, even when moved to the greenhouse. (planted deep in the garden will give them more protection)
• They take a lot of goodness form the soil, more than a pot can provide, so keep well-watered and feed (high potash such as tomorite)
• They are tall and produce an abundance of foliage. (use twice the usual size pot you would normally use)

In colder parts of the UK, Poetaz varieties are the safer bet.

 

Why Grow Them?

Because few daffodils offer:

• Such abundant clusters of bloom
• Such intense fragrance
• Such cheerful colour in early to mid‑spring

They’re a wonderful way to extend the daffodil season and bring a touch of Mediterranean warmth to British gardens.

 

Summer‑Flowering Anemones:

A Touch of Mediterranean Magic in the Summer Garden

Inspired by centuries of cultivation and still as captivating as ever

Summer anemones bring a light, graceful touch to borders and woodland‑style plantings, their open‑faced, papery blooms rising above fresh green foliage from midsummer into early autumn. On your site they’re described as elegant, airy plants that thrive in partial shade and well‑drained soil, adding gentle movement and natural charm to any outdoor space.

Where they come from

These anemones (Anemone coronaria) trace their origins to the eastern Mediterranean—Greece, Turkey, Israel, Lebanon, Syria, and parts of North Africa. In the wild they grow in sun‑washed meadows and rocky hillsides, emerging after winter rains and flowering in great drifts of blue, red, pink, and white. Their native climate explains their preferences in UK gardens: moisture in spring, warmth in summer, and soil that drains freely.

A brief history

People have grown anemones for thousands of years. They appear in ancient Greek writings and were linked with myths of renewal and the turning of the seasons. By the Middle Ages they were already being cultivated across southern Europe, valued for their bright, simple flowers.

The real transformation came in the 17th and 18th centuries, when breeders in France, Italy, the Netherlands, and later Ireland began selecting for richer colours and more elaborate forms. This is when the two groups we offer today took shape:

• De Caen — Developed in France, known for their single, silky blooms and vivid colours.
• St Brigid — Bred in Ireland, celebrated for their semi‑double, ruffled flowers with a fuller, more textured look.

By Victorian times, anemones were favourites in cottage gardens and cut‑flower production, prized for their long vase life and jewel‑bright tones.

How their heritage shapes how we grow them

Their Mediterranean roots make them wonderfully suited to UK gardens when given the right start:

• Plant in well‑drained soil and partial shade to mimic their natural habitat.
• Soak the corms before planting to imitate the winter rains that trigger growth.
• Expect flowers from midsummer into early autumn, bridging the gap between early‑season bulbs and late perennials.

Together, their airy beauty, long season, and rich history make summer anemones a plant with both charm and story—perfect for gardeners who love a touch of elegance with a sense of place.

 

All About Nerines

Few plants light up the autumn garden quite like Nerines. Just as borders begin to fade and the evenings draw in, these elegant, shimmering blooms burst into life—lifting the whole garden with their colour, poise, and unexpected glamour. If you’ve ever wanted a plant that feels like a well‑kept secret, Nerines are exactly that: easy, reliable, and dazzling, yet still strangely under‑grown.

Why Nerines Are So Special

Nerines bring a rare combination of late-season colour, graceful structure, and remarkable resilience. Their slender stems and starburst flowers look delicate, but they’re tougher than they appear—especially the hardy Nerine bowdenii types, which thrive outdoors in much of the UK.

What makes them irresistible:

• Flowering when little else does – September to November.
• A spectrum of pinks from soft blush to vivid magenta.
• Long-lasting blooms that hold beautifully in the garden and in the vase.
• Compact growth perfect for borders, pots, and courtyard gardens.
• Low maintenance once established.

 

Interesting Nerine Facts

1. They flower best when crowded

Most bulbs sulk if you don’t divide them. Nerines are the opposite — they want to be left alone, packed tightly together, almost hugging each other. Disturb them too often and they’ll stop flowering.

2. Their petals shimmer like silk

The petals have a metallic sheen caused by microscopic ridges that reflect light. It’s why they look almost unreal in low autumn sun.

3. They’re part of the Amaryllis family

Which makes them cousins of Amaryllis, Crinum, and Hippeastrum — all known for dramatic, sculptural flowers.

4. They’re naturally autumn bloomers

In South Africa, they flower after winter rains. In the UK, that translates to September–November — perfect for extending the season.

5. They’re superb cut flowers

Long-lasting, elegant, and surprisingly sturdy. A single stem in a slim vase looks incredibly stylish.

 

Growing Nerines: Simple, Rewarding, and Surprisingly Forgiving

Nerines are happiest when they’re treated a little meanly. They love:

• A sunny, sheltered spot – south-facing walls are ideal.
• Well-drained soil – they dislike winter wet.
• Crowded bulbs – they flower best when left undisturbed.

Planting Tips

• Plant bulbs with their necks at or just above soil level.
• Choose a spot that gets maximum sun—they need warmth to ripen.
• In pots, use a gritty, free-draining compost and avoid overwatering.

Once they settle in, they’ll flower reliably for years.

Varieties Worth Knowing

There’s a Nerine for every taste, but a few stand out for UK gardens:

Nerine bowdenii

The classic hardy type—bold pink, reliable, and perfect for borders.

Nerine bowdenii ‘Alba’

Elegant white blooms that glow in low autumn light.

Where Nerines Shine in the Garden

Nerines are brilliant for:

• Front-of-border planting where their stems can rise cleanly above foliage.
• Against warm walls where they get extra heat.
• Pots on patios for close-up enjoyment.
• Cut flowers—they last beautifully indoors.

They also pair wonderfully with:

• Grasses
• Sedums
• Salvias
• Late-season dahlias

Their upright form and vivid colour add structure and sparkle just when the garden needs it most.

Looking After Nerines Through the Year

• Spring–Summer: Keep them fairly dry; they don’t need much fuss.
• Autumn: Enjoy the flowers—this is their moment.
• Winter: Hardy types cope well, but avoid waterlogging. Tender types need frost-free protection.

Leave clumps undisturbed for several years; Nerines dislike being moved and reward patience with better flowering.

Why You’ll Love Growing Them

Once you’ve grown Nerines, you’ll wonder how you ever gardened without them. They’re joyful, surprising, and wonderfully dependable—bringing a burst of colour just when the garden is starting to wind down. For UK gardeners, they’re one of the easiest ways to extend the season and add a touch of late-year magic.

 

A Family of Remarkable Diversity

One of the reasons lilies are so beloved is the sheer range of forms and habits they offer. Each group brings something distinct:

Asiatic Hybrids

• Earliest to flower, often from late June
• Vibrant colours: oranges, reds, yellows, pinks
• Usually unscented, making them ideal for those who prefer colour without perfume
• Compact varieties suit pots and smaller borders

Oriental Hybrids

• Large, luxurious blooms with rich fragrance
• Thrive in containers and slightly acidic soils
• Flower later, often July–August, extending the season
• Classic whites and pinks, plus dramatic modern bicolours

Trumpet & Aurelian Lilies

• Tall, architectural, and wonderfully scented
• Long, flared flowers that glow in evening light
• Excellent for the back of borders or cutting gardens

Longiflorum & LA Hybrids

• Elegant, elongated trumpets
• Strong stems and reliable performance in UK conditions
• LA hybrids combine the best of Longiflorum and Asiatic traits: bold colour, good form, and improved durability

OT (Orienpet) Hybrids

• A favourite for gardeners wanting height and drama
• Huge flowers, powerful scent, and impressive vigour
• Ideal for creating a “wow” moment in mixed borders

Planting Lilies for Long-Term Success

Lilies are surprisingly forgiving, but a few simple principles make all the difference:

Soil & Site

• Prefer full sun or light shade
• Need free-draining soil — add grit if yours is heavy
• In pots, use a deep container and a gritty, peat-free mix

Depth & Spacing

• Plant bulbs around 15cm deep
• Taller varieties benefit from being planted slightly deeper for stability
• Space bulbs 20–30cm apart depending on variety

Feeding & Watering

• Keep soil moist but never waterlogged
• Feed regularly during growth with a balanced or high-potash fertiliser
• Mulch lightly to retain moisture and keep roots cool

Protection from Lily Beetle

• Check plants regularly from spring onwards
• Remove adults and larvae by hand
• Encourage birds and beneficial insects by avoiding harsh chemicals

Designing with Lilies

Lilies are natural scene-stealers, but they also play beautifully with others.

In Borders

• Pair with salvias, nepeta, astrantia, alchemilla, phlox, or ornamental grasses
• Use tall lilies to rise above lower perennials and create vertical rhythm
• Plant in groups of three or five for impact

In Containers

• Choose deep pots for stability
• Underplant with trailing lobelia, violas, or heuchera for colour at the base
• Combine Oriental lilies with shade-tolerant companions for a lush, layered look

For Cutting

• Harvest when the first bud is just opening
• Remove stamens to prolong vase life and prevent pollen stains
• Many varieties last over a week indoors

Scent: A Garden Experience in Itself

Fragrance is one of the great pleasures of growing lilies.

• Oriental, Trumpet, and OT hybrids offer the richest perfume
• Plant near seating areas, paths, or doorways to enjoy evening scent
• For fragrance-sensitive gardeners, choose Asiatic or LA hybrids, which are generally unscented

Seasonal Planning

Lilies offer a long flowering window when you mix groups:

Lily Group	Typical UK Flowering Time
Asiatic	Late June – early July
LA Hybrids	Early–mid July
Oriental	Mid July – August
OT Hybrids	Late July – August
Trumpet/Aurelian	July – August

Staggering varieties ensures colour and scent for up to eight weeks.

Looking Ahead to This Year’s Collection

This season brings a blend of timeless favourites and exciting new introductions. Expect:

• Bold modern bicolours
• Towering OT hybrids for dramatic borders
• Compact, container-friendly Orientals
• Reliable LA hybrids for gardeners who want colour without fuss

Whether you’re refreshing a border, filling patio pots, or creating a cutting patch, lilies offer unmatched elegance and a return on investment that grows year after year.

 

Eucomis: Exotic Looks, Effortless Growing

Eucomis—better known as pineapple lilies—are one of those rare plants that stop people in their tracks. Their bold rosettes of strappy leaves and tall flower spikes topped with a quirky pineapple‑like tuft bring a touch of the exotic to UK gardens, yet they’re surprisingly easy to grow. If you’re looking to add something fresh, architectural, and long‑flowering to your summer displays, this is the moment to plant them.

Why Eucomis Deserve a Place in Every Garden

• Long-lasting summer colour Flowering from mid‑summer into early autumn, Eucomis provide weeks of interest when many borders are starting to fade.
• Architectural presence Their upright stems and distinctive crowns add structure to pots, borders, and gravel gardens.
• Excellent in containers They thrive in pots, making them ideal for patios, terraces, and small gardens.
• Drought-tolerant once established Perfect for hot, dry summers and low‑maintenance gardeners.
• Brilliant cut flowers Their stems last beautifully in the vase, adding something unusual to arrangements.

Where They Grow Best

Eucomis love a warm, sunny spot with free‑draining soil. In the UK, they’re happiest in:

• Containers with gritty compost
• Sheltered borders
• South‑ or west‑facing positions
• Gravel or Mediterranean‑style plantings

In colder regions, a winter mulch or bringing pots under cover keeps them snug through the colder months.

Planting Tips for Strong, Healthy Growth

• Plant bulbs in spring once the soil has warmed.
• Set them about 10–15cm deep in well‑drained compost.
• Water regularly during active growth, then reduce watering as the foliage dies back.
• Feed every couple of weeks in summer for the best flower spikes.

A Range of Colours and Forms

From the deep plum tones of Eucomis ‘Sparkling Burgundy’ to the fresh lime‑green flowers of Eucomis bicolor, there’s a variety to suit every planting style. Compact forms are perfect for pots, while taller varieties make striking border accents.

A Summer Statement Worth Making

If you’re planning your summer displays now, Eucomis offer something genuinely different—exotic flair without the fuss. They’re reliable, eye‑catching, and wonderfully rewarding.

January Newsletter
As we look ahead to the coming season, we wanted to share a little more about what inspired us to expand into summer‑flowering bulbs and share information about the varieties we offer.

For many years, we’ve taken great joy in seeing how daffodils transform gardens after winter. Their reliability, and sheer variety have always been at the heart of what we do. Over the past few years we have found ourselves needing to expand the selection of flowers we offer.

So, let’s start with a little information about Begonias:

If you’re looking for reliable, long‑lasting colour through the summer months, Begonias are one of the most rewarding bulbs you can grow. They thrive in the UK’s varied conditions and offer a generous display from early summer right into autumn, often continuing until the first frosts.

The Begonia is native to Asia, Africa and central and south America. This would suggest that they wouldn’t be suitable for our climate. Although this is true to our winter you will find it thrives in the summer months. Plant the Begonia after the last frost (end of April), or early March if you want to start it in pots in the greenhouse or windowsill. They need to be planted shallow, approximately 2cm below the surface. The tuber and root will remain shallow so make sure you keep them watered. These varieties are hardy and will tolerate the sun without too much leaf damage. If starting indoors, harden them outside in a partially shaded area before moving to full sun. The sun will encourage good flowering. As mentioned above the tuber doesn’t like our winter so to be safe, lift the tuber when the foliage dies back and store in a dry frost-free area. More information

Much of the above information can be found on the internet, which is great but if you would like to share your experiences (not just Begonias), we would love to hear from you. We will endeavour to share this in our newsletters, making sure any personal information is kept private. adrian@scampsbulbs.co.uk

Thank you for being part of the Scamp’s Bulbs community. Your enthusiasm and support continue to inspire everything we do.

Warm regards, Adrian and Sharon

We’re delighted to share some exciting news from Scamp’s Bulbs. Alongside our much‑loved spring collections, we are now offering an assortment of summer‑flowering bulbs to bring colour, height, and interest to your garden.
The early spring colour of daffodils will always remain our passion but continuing that colour throughout the Summer into Autumn is something we hope you will enjoy as much as we do in our garden.

Our new range includes a selection of Begonias, Dahlias, Eucomis, Lilies, Narines, Anemone, Zantedeschia and others, ideal for borders, pots, and cutting. Chosen for their performance, beauty, and suitability for UK conditions. Whether you’re looking for bold, vibrant blooms or elegant, architectural shapes, there’s something here to brighten the warmest months of the year.

All bulbs are available to order now for spring delivery. (End February – End of April)

Thank you for supporting Scamp’s Bulbs, and we hope these new additions bring even more seasonal joy to your garden.

Warm regards, Adrian and Sharon

Previously we have shipped throughout the world but due to ever increasing cost we are no longer able to ship outside of the UK mainland, this unfortunately includes Northern Ireland.

We are truly sorry that we cannot supply bulbs to our friends overseas and would like to thank them for their support over the years.